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5) The "Strip and Feather" rail method 
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bB Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:01 pm
Posts: 135
Location: south shore, Ma
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BFich and I are building together, we put down the bottom rail strip yesterday, we'll probably start the rails soon.


Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:59 pm
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sage
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Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 8:05 pm
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Thanks Rich for the advice, i'll post more pics when i get a chance


Tue Oct 24, 2006 1:46 pm
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 7:27 pm
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Location: Coastal
Post rail idea
Woke up in the middle of the night last night with a thought. What if instead of putting your bevel facing down, you faced it up - so that the point pointed toward the celling. You'd get half the benefit of bead and cove, and still not need a router.

Like this:

Image

The result might be an "interlocking" lip that would hold each rail strip in place while the glue sets. GG would foam up and fill the void as well. You'd just need to be careful in sanding so that you didn't expose the void.

Haven't had coffee yet - this idea might be ridiculous - many have been.


Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:35 am
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:01 pm
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Location: south shore, Ma
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The only bad thing I could see in that is on the top of the frames where most of the wood gets planed down, it might be a little weak only having gorilla glue to fill the void that would become exposed by planing. I think it would still be doable though. Looks like a great solution for those without a router.


Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:45 am
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Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 12:12 am
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Location: Cowaramup, West Oz
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Looks like a great idea rich - so simple. Why didn't I think of that. The board I am working on has Bead and cove rails - I am comparing the effectiveness of the two at the moment.


Thu Nov 23, 2006 3:59 pm
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Location: south shore, Ma
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Started shaping the rails today, it's tough. Anyone have any tips or techniques that worked for them?


Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:50 pm
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Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 12:41 am
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Location: Long Island, New York
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Quote:
Started shaping the rails today, it's tough. Anyone have any tips or techniques that worked for them?


It helped to have a punching bag in the basment next to where I was working...

Practice with you plane...long even pressured strokes on a bit of an angle.

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Mon Dec 04, 2006 8:03 pm
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Joined: Tue Apr 25, 2006 7:27 pm
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Location: Coastal
Post sanding rails
If you are talking about the final shaping:

It takes more time and the dust sucks but sanding with 80-grit keeps you from making any big gouging mistakes.


Tue Dec 05, 2006 9:38 am
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underpaid

Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:32 pm
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Hello all
I just got plans for the 10 footer today (Christmas present), and had a question about the chine strips. Rich, you said to just cut the notches ourselves, but I was just curious where those notches should be placed, especially in the nose where the rails are close to 50/50. Should they be placed basically where the rail starts to curve up? If placed here, you will still have the rails curving up on the outer side of the chine strip; how would one negotiate this, especially if one is using the cove and bead strips? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, and I can't wait to get started building.
Nate


Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:58 pm
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underpaid

Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:32 pm
Posts: 11
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Oops.
After further consideration I think I figured out my own question, but still, any tips are always appreciated. Anyways, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions as I get deeper into the build.
Nate


Mon Dec 25, 2006 7:19 pm
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Buy NowTo purchase Strip & Feather templates of Rich Blundell's tested and proven surfboard designs click here. Each template costs $20 emailed to the address you use for PayPal transactions.