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5) The "Strip and Feather" rail method
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Fish
sage
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:17 am Posts: 21 Location: Portland, OR
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Timmy that's some pretty wood, what kind is it?
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http://begreenandflow.blogspot.com/
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| Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:54 am |
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awskitc
social user
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 3:59 pm Posts: 9 Location: Great Lakes
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 Solid Rails
I just got the template for a 6'4" Fish, I havent started yet, just trying to figure out the whole scheme of things first. I'm debating what to do on the rails, but I really like the look of the solid balsa and cork rails. Can anyone give me advice on which method to use? Seems everybody here is doing the bead and cove technique. what's the advantage there?
Thanks
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| Mon Apr 30, 2007 1:20 pm |
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theweatherstore
sage
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 11:08 am Posts: 43 Location: Cape Cod
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When viewed from above, the bead and cove method will cover the rails and extend the planks to the edge. With balsa/cork method you will see the rails as rings/layers around the planks. In the end both methods product nice rails. The balsa/cork might be a little heavier though.
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| Tue May 01, 2007 11:44 am |
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bgwvdv
sage
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2007 6:51 pm Posts: 30 Location: san diego
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im thinking about bass wood rail strips. has anyone else used it and is it nice to look at? anyone know were to get a bead n cove router bit?
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| Sat May 05, 2007 9:04 pm |
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Crabman
sage
Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 5:53 pm Posts: 80 Location: Isle Of Wight
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For solid rails what is the average thickness of the strips used ? and what is the thickness of the shaped finished rails say for a fish?
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| Sun May 13, 2007 5:39 am |
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timmy
bB Moderator
Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 3:01 pm Posts: 135 Location: south shore, Ma
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sorry I missed this post. the wood is aromatic cedar
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| Mon Jun 25, 2007 6:56 pm |
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wurfel
sage
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 5:37 pm Posts: 58 Location: South Florida
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I'm at the point of putting in the chine strip and had a question about where each length should start and end. Should the left and right strips meet at a point at the nose? In a fish shape this would be the logical decision to create a sharp point but since I'm building a 9" log I'm looking to create a rounded nose and therefore am thinking of having 3 strips...1 to cover the nose and 1 on each side...does anyone see a problem in this? Also, how far into the tail should the chine run?
thanks all...
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| Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:39 pm |
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Slackerwells
sage
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 8:13 pm Posts: 161 Location: Lennox Head, Australia
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With the rail strips has anyone (without a router for the bead and cove method) thought about planing a little bit of the 2 internal sides to make a kind of trapezoid shape to lock each strip in together.......kind of need a picture.
but very similar to how they cut stones to build a stone archway each one bevelled to interlock with the next around the curve.
not sure how it will work, anyone got any thoughts?
im up to my rails now and am going to give it a go. will post some pics of my progress.
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| Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:58 pm |
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sussexsurfer
bB Moderator
Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 4:24 pm Posts: 63 Location: UK
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Hi Slacker, that's the way I've done it but don't do both sides of strip, just adjust 1 side to fit. Check out my thread in Projects 'The Glider'. Best of luck.
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| Sun Aug 26, 2007 4:48 pm |
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Slackerwells
sage
Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2007 8:13 pm Posts: 161 Location: Lennox Head, Australia
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hey sussex thanks for that, just had a look at your thread and that is a damn nice board!!
that was pretty much how i was planning on attempting my rails, good to know that it works. thanks for the help.
btw. how does the board go? I bet she does glide!!
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| Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:56 pm |
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